Frame / jig / strong back

 the frame 

 Jig / Frame is used to locate the bulkheads and provide support whilst the hull is planked. 

As mine will have to be movable due to my different work areas.  I will build the frame as per the B&B drawings then mount it to skid so can be moved by a forklift / Over head crane. 

My material for the frame was scrap from packaging crates and skids. 

4x ( 2407x140x36 ) 8’ x 6x2

5x (1143-1026) 8’ x 6x2 10

pieces between those two measurements

10 x (1400 - 1252) 6x2 5 pieces

10 x random supports less than 1000mm

8 x plywood for gussets 203mm X 203 mm

2 x plywood straps for stern 

 

 

 

 

 

21/Nov/2021 

Base of strong back and most of the uprights set up squared, levelled and elevation set.  

My shop floor is not level and the scrap lumber I used would cover all the defects you’d find in the picked over lumber pile at any hardware store.  So instead of relying on the elevation from the base of the jig as per the drawing, I have set up a laser level on the Center line of the boat and about 150mm above the finished hull level.  I have landmarked it vertical and horizontal in several places on the building and made a fixed bracket so I can’t reset it if required or transfer to a different location  and maintain the same elevation.  

I have bolted the strong back to the shop floor with thread rod so I could adjust square and used chocks near the mid line of the boat to straighten the long rails. 

I have levelled the strong back to with in a mm from bow to stern and port to starboard.  

I double checked the Center line with a string line and all looks good. 

Placing the steam support is probably the next challenge, it’s not vertical. 

I hope with the work to set this it will give me a good foundation to hang the frames, which will need to be set for location and elevation as well as the vertical 2x6 that supports them is another variable.  

Review. 

I should not have used the low quality lumber I did.  It warped, twisted and cupped. This meant when i hung the transom it was 5mm out, which required removing all the frames up to frame D and reseting them. 

Graphics/Paint David Bowie

Graphics/Paint  

 Really not sure what it will be but I hope I will have the courage and conviction to do some thing absolute outrageous, when the time is right. 

Summer Work Shop

 Summer Work Shop

 

Video tour of summer/fall work shop.

plan is to start assembling frames at the farm then move to the city work shop

as weather warms up.

https://youtu.be/uBCmBI3BuV8

 

CNC Kit on Order

 CNC Kit on order  😬

 

Update 02 12 2021 - ply and DF is cut and packed.  Just waiting on shipping availablity there has been roads cut to coast for 2 weeks so shipping is backed up. 

9mm plywood, 6mm Plywood, Douglas Fir for CNC parts,  purpleheart for keel timber, conversion to CNC file, CNC cutting of parts.  All in $7565.00+tax. FOB Vancouver Island

 

 

i sent in the deposit for my CNC plywood and frames. I purchased the cut file that BnB yachts produced to allow me to get a third party in Canada to supply the plywood and stringers pre cut. I looked at buying directly from BnB has they have made several kits already but with US dollar, brokerage, potentially duties and transport I went with a Canadian company. I also like the idea of buying local as much as possible.

If I was to loft and cut from plans it would add considerable time and effort, I admire those builders who have gone that way but in the interests of the best use of my time CNC it is.

http://www.westwindhardwood.com/

Jan at West Wind has been very helpful and patient with me over the 6 months of asking questions but spending no money. Once I get the finial pricing I will list it here but it will be around $7000 CAN.

#130 - 9mm Occume Marine Plywood

#129 - 6mm Occume Marine Plywood

1" Douglas-fir; Flat-Grain

 

 

The Joubert not the Aquatek 

 

 

Material

Material List 

 

Update Jan 17th 2022 

Screws 

 

Converting from Polish/EU to Canadian Nomenclature makes for some interesting googling. This link is my material based on the original information that came with the plans. I also have a spreadsheet running, with pricing and vendors but I think this might be a cleaner way to show what was required on the build and what I have or intended to purchase. I will update it as a living document.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-_Z2tlO4R5d3IzpDyy6g2_LzH-7WdGX1/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=110173555948939466677&rtpof=true&sd=true

The image, is from https://classglobe580project.blogspot.com/

 

 

Screws 

 

 

Another 🐇 hole. So when is a 30mm screw not a 30mm screw? when it’s a #8 1.25” screw which measures 31.7mm.

9mm ply and 22m stringers / 31mm, this makes for a whole lot little tiny points of screws.

So what to do.

1st I have requested that the requirements change to 1”/25mm screws for 9mm construction. Posted on forum/ Don said ask Janusz. I have, still waiting to hear back on that.

2nd if I was building not from CNC I’d be tempted just increase my stringer depth to 28mm.

3rd Glass back side of stringers. This would A) seal this surface for fairing and painting B) cover the cut off screw tips. I would not seal the whole piece just the top side.

4th wait to see what others are doing as I can get screws pretty much any time.

Keel Timber

 Keel Timber 

I guess it’s keel support timber as the keel is a steel plate. I'm sure there is more nautical term for them. These timbers will support the keel inside the boat.

There is 5 of them starting at frame D1 and running aft.

Several builders have installed them on the jig/strong back to assist in locating frames. Then when the boat is flipped completed the final install. 

 

There is a lot of talk of keel timber online, what you should and shouldn't use for wood species, laminated vs solid.

The keel timber is 60mm Wide x 70mm Deep x 600mm long (2.36x2.75x23.62")for the longest one between frame B and C

To go from 1" planks to 2.75" I will be lamenting them together. I haven't figured out if I'm pre-cutting them to shape or laminating them in 2' sections then cutting to shape. TBD.

For the lamination method, I'm going to use the West System Instructions. Chapter 11

https://www.westsystem.com/the-gougeon-brothers-on-boat-construction/

Greg M suggested I read some articles on issues with bonding hardwoods, there is a lot there and its not as easy as picking the hardest or most rot-resistant

https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/epoxy-with-oak/

So Stands the Mighty Oak Letters to the Editor — White Oak White Oak Redux Understanding Flexible Properties

WestSystem tech support recommend their GFlex 650 product for these this type of bonding.

 As usual, the guys at Westwind lumber have options for me just got to figure out the best one.

 Epoxy part 1 arrived

 

3x 105C

1 x 206C

1 x 205C

1 x west 300 mini pumps

1 x west 404 High density filler 15.2 ounce

1 x west 4060Colloidal Silica Adhesive Filler 1.9 Ounces

1 x west 407 Low Density Fairing filler 4 ounces

I did not buy enough hardener on purpose because im not sure what ill need more of. I think fast as I will be mostly using it for smaller projects by that point I hope. It was not on sale the 105C was.

 

The good word

 The good word 

 thought I should have a list of books referenced for the build.

1. boat building methods - peter cook 1971 - 2nd book store

2. Boat Building with Plywood by Glen L. Witt Naval Architect

- Purchased from https://www.boatdesigns.com/Boatbuilding-with-Plywood/productinfo/12%2D430/

3. 002-970 Wooden Boat Restoration & Repair WEST SYSTEM

- Online download free WEST System

4. The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction

- Online download free WEST System

5. Epoxy Basics - Russell Brown

6. Rolling to Perfection 2nd Edition - Russell Brown 

 

 

And probably more importantly a list of books that made me think this was possible. 

 

1. Johnathan Livingstone Seagull -  Richard Bach 1970 - my first audio book. Read too me and maybe my siblings by my Dad. I can not remember how old I was.  My take away was that you can do what love and you may die or you can do nothing and you will still die. 

Sorry Dad I have lost the dust jacket in the last 30 years but I still have your copy of the book. 

2. The Boat Who Wouldn't Float - Farley Mowat 1969 - Ceri Patrick my Welsh friend told me to read it.  He just brought a block of land in Newfoundland, ocean frontage. I hope to sail up to it one day.

 

 

 If you are interested in a better curated list of books on sailing it's self  Peter Kenyon #47 has a list I'm working on. 

https://northcardinal.co.uk/books/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rudder construction

 Rudder

 

1820mm x 405mm x 40mm laminated Douglas fir, recovered from granary

- clean up 4000mm x 220mm, cut to 1840mm

- set up table saw and rip boards to 40mm x 40mm +\~ @ 1840

Will see how they look after thickness planner and rough out, some spilt near the original ends. I should be able to move them to off cut area up near the tiller.

time - 4hrs