The Minimum Required Blog Posts #themusts

 1. Making frames.

2. Setting up fames and stingers.

3. Hull plating

4. Hull epoxy sheeting and fairing.

5. Roll hull and Deck plating/Glass-fairing.

6. Internal plywood fit and crash box.

5. Keel floors.

6. Weighing hull.

7. Rudder construction. Gudgeon/pintle and all chain plate fittings.

8. Keel construction and weighing.

9. Companionway hatch, Watertight doors and deck hatches , vents and windows.

Companionway way hatch - Clue marine 500mmx700mm 

D1 hatch - Clue marine 500mmx700mm

Air circulation hatch aft of mast - Clue marine 

Main forward deck hatch -  lewmar 50 

10. Mounting of Handrails, pushpit/pulpit, Bowsprit, safety harness attachments and towing bow bollard including backing plates.

Winter Workshop

 

24/12/2021 - Spent the afternoon of the 24th moving some storage items to make room for a layout and work area.  Hung a couple of lights as it’s pretty dark back in this corner of the shop.  The ply to make the bench tops came with the cnc parts and the lights are used from one of our buildings (install is not to code) 

Plywood is in the house

 Plywood turned up whilst I was working out of town, just in time for Christmas :).  On pallet was 9mm plywood, Douglas fir CNC parts and Purple Heart for keel.  

The plywood, Douglas fir, CNC cutting and Purple Heart is all from west wind hardwood https://www.westwindhardwood.com/custom-milling/

I’ve knocked down the pallet, next will be sanding, trimming and sorting. 

Plan is to seal all internal wood before assembling anything.  I know this is the most efficient method but seeing all the parts it’s very tempting to pick out the bulk head pieces and start on them.  I will sleep on it. 

Purple Heart for keel 

Douglas Fir 

Plywood (zoom in for detail on maker and size)

Social Media Links - For updates Check HERE

 

 Facebook

 https://www.facebook.com/BruceL133

 

Instagram 

 https://www.instagram.com/globe_5.8_133/

The hunt for wood - Plywood

 The hunt for wood - Plywood 

 

 

being of plywood construction the 5.8 requires 23-25 sheets of 9mm 3/8 marine or a split if it’s 8mm (topside) and 10mm (hull)plywood. From what I have found in Canada to date it is relatively easy to get meranti marine ply which looks to be made in Indonesia or south-east Asia.

it’s harder to get the Okoume and it’s more money which looks to be made in Europe.

I'm linking this post below because from what I have read its a good summation of the two types of wood I could use. I can not use Fir, which I have tried to use before and have not been happy with it, the sanded finish was not great. Reading these blogs now I see why namely the type of wood and the process to make it.

I will look harder for Okoume for the topside and interior fit-out but I'm pretty sure it's going to be all 9mm 3/8 Meranti

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?6830-Okoume-and-Meranti-Plywood-vs-Fir-Plywood

" There is no comparison between what they call "fir marine Plywood" these days and meranti or okoume marine. Like different products all together but fir does have its uses. Like Gert and Jim have said, rotary sliced fir will not give a good finish. Meranti and okoume will finish very smooth. Meranti and okoume are a bit more splinter prone than fir so a good quality plywood saw blade with a high angle ATB bevel is manditory to get a clean kerf. For bending situations okoume is much better than meranti. Okoume is also a bit lighter weight if that is important. Both come in 2 grades 6566 and 1088. 1088 is about 40% more expensive. I have used both and have found almost no difference in the 2 grades until you get above 9 mm.

As far as stength goes from strongest to weakest, the order is fir, meranti and okoume. Weight from heaviest to lightest is Meranti, fir okoume.

In my boat, I used fir marine for some interior structural bulkheads in the lazerette and engine room because it is a bit better at noise suppression, less expensive and don't show. Flat surfaces that are painted or veneered are meranti and all the deck skins and cabin trunk are okoume for the weight savings and bending quality. "

update 2021 02 06

It would seem Okoume is the only choice as I can not find a supplier who can give me a certificate of conformation with BS1088.

 

 B&B rendering of design

Link to the Class site which has lots of information on what the class is about and photos of nearly completed boats.

https://www.classglobe580.com/

 

Frame / jig / strong back

 the frame 

 Jig / Frame is used to locate the bulkheads and provide support whilst the hull is planked. 

As mine will have to be movable due to my different work areas.  I will build the frame as per the B&B drawings then mount it to skid so can be moved by a forklift / Over head crane. 

My material for the frame was scrap from packaging crates and skids. 

4x ( 2407x140x36 ) 8’ x 6x2

5x (1143-1026) 8’ x 6x2 10

pieces between those two measurements

10 x (1400 - 1252) 6x2 5 pieces

10 x random supports less than 1000mm

8 x plywood for gussets 203mm X 203 mm

2 x plywood straps for stern 

 

 

 

 

 

21/Nov/2021 

Base of strong back and most of the uprights set up squared, levelled and elevation set.  

My shop floor is not level and the scrap lumber I used would cover all the defects you’d find in the picked over lumber pile at any hardware store.  So instead of relying on the elevation from the base of the jig as per the drawing, I have set up a laser level on the Center line of the boat and about 150mm above the finished hull level.  I have landmarked it vertical and horizontal in several places on the building and made a fixed bracket so I can’t reset it if required or transfer to a different location  and maintain the same elevation.  

I have bolted the strong back to the shop floor with thread rod so I could adjust square and used chocks near the mid line of the boat to straighten the long rails. 

I have levelled the strong back to with in a mm from bow to stern and port to starboard.  

I double checked the Center line with a string line and all looks good. 

Placing the steam support is probably the next challenge, it’s not vertical. 

I hope with the work to set this it will give me a good foundation to hang the frames, which will need to be set for location and elevation as well as the vertical 2x6 that supports them is another variable.  

Review. 

I should not have used the low quality lumber I did.  It warped, twisted and cupped. This meant when i hung the transom it was 5mm out, which required removing all the frames up to frame D and reseting them.